Fixing Carpet Bombing To Black from Perfectly Clear?
Posted: 2015-01-01T17:12:42-07:00
Hi,
I have a new wizbang piece of image software, Perfectly Clear. The promise of "1 mouse click to instant perfection" has instead badly damaged a large number of my images before I realized what it was doing. The first thing it apparently does is to take the darkest few percent of all pixels and carpet bomb them to near perfect black. It looks like somebody redacted my images with a black magick marker.
Athentech tech support does not view crushing dark areas to pure black as a problem and has not suggested methods to prevent or fix this destructive defect. I like some of the software's effects on color separation and sky treatment so I have not returned it.
The manual fix to roll back the blackening is to:
1) open the vitiated file in Photohsop
2) duplicate layer
3) open backup, pre-damage version
4) select all, copy
5) return to the corrupted image, paste the old image to a new layer and move it below the degraded copy
6) in the damaged image, select color range, fuzziness=~16, range=100%, check localized color clusters and click on a BLACK spot
7) select modify -> expand(3), feather(2)
delete (clear) to erase the denigrated, "carpet bombed to black" areas which fall through to the original
9) flatten, save
This eliminates the carbonized areas and has a nice, smooth transition because of the feathering. But it takes a few minutes of manual labor per pic and some impetuous cowboy playing with his new toy (WSRN) mangled hundreds before inspecting the dark areas for irreparable damage. When printed, the damage appears dramatically worse than on the screen.
I can't figure out a Photoshop action to automate this because you have to pick a black area with the color picker.
In IM, I tried a similar fix and got fairly good results except that the extirpation sometimes leaves a noticeable banding. Here is my IM attempt:
# Convert the black to transparent with a fuzz factor in the burnt image and save as an RGBA with an Alpha channel.
convert nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.jpg -fuzz 7% -channel RGBA -fill none -opaque black nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.tif
# Add an alpha channel to the saved Original (thank goodness for backups!)
convert nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.o.jpg -alpha on nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.o.tif
# Superimpose the cutout burnt version over the original so the sullied, transparent sections fall through to the original
composite nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.tif nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.o.tif nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.sup.tif
I also tried the "Feathering Shapes using Distance" trick to try to get the Photoshop select->modify->feather effect. It took forever on 90 Mpix panorama and did not make that much difference.
convert nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.jpg -fuzz 7% -channel RGBA -fill none -opaque black -virtual-pixel transparent -morphology Distance Euclidean:4,3! nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba2.tif
I can't figure out how to add images to illustrate the before vs. after crushing of darks to black.
Any pointer appreciated,
Brian
I have a new wizbang piece of image software, Perfectly Clear. The promise of "1 mouse click to instant perfection" has instead badly damaged a large number of my images before I realized what it was doing. The first thing it apparently does is to take the darkest few percent of all pixels and carpet bomb them to near perfect black. It looks like somebody redacted my images with a black magick marker.
Athentech tech support does not view crushing dark areas to pure black as a problem and has not suggested methods to prevent or fix this destructive defect. I like some of the software's effects on color separation and sky treatment so I have not returned it.
The manual fix to roll back the blackening is to:
1) open the vitiated file in Photohsop
2) duplicate layer
3) open backup, pre-damage version
4) select all, copy
5) return to the corrupted image, paste the old image to a new layer and move it below the degraded copy
6) in the damaged image, select color range, fuzziness=~16, range=100%, check localized color clusters and click on a BLACK spot
7) select modify -> expand(3), feather(2)
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9) flatten, save
This eliminates the carbonized areas and has a nice, smooth transition because of the feathering. But it takes a few minutes of manual labor per pic and some impetuous cowboy playing with his new toy (WSRN) mangled hundreds before inspecting the dark areas for irreparable damage. When printed, the damage appears dramatically worse than on the screen.
I can't figure out a Photoshop action to automate this because you have to pick a black area with the color picker.
In IM, I tried a similar fix and got fairly good results except that the extirpation sometimes leaves a noticeable banding. Here is my IM attempt:
# Convert the black to transparent with a fuzz factor in the burnt image and save as an RGBA with an Alpha channel.
convert nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.jpg -fuzz 7% -channel RGBA -fill none -opaque black nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.tif
# Add an alpha channel to the saved Original (thank goodness for backups!)
convert nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.o.jpg -alpha on nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.o.tif
# Superimpose the cutout burnt version over the original so the sullied, transparent sections fall through to the original
composite nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.tif nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.o.tif nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba.sup.tif
I also tried the "Feathering Shapes using Distance" trick to try to get the Photoshop select->modify->feather effect. It took forever on 90 Mpix panorama and did not make that much difference.
convert nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.jpg -fuzz 7% -channel RGBA -fill none -opaque black -virtual-pixel transparent -morphology Distance Euclidean:4,3! nb-2013.0830-169664.p17.rgba2.tif
I can't figure out how to add images to illustrate the before vs. after crushing of darks to black.
Any pointer appreciated,
Brian